Excess sebum is the pet peeve of mixed to oily skin. The care to be applied, the diet to adopt, the techniques to be considered… We go around the solutions with dermatologist Nadine Pomarède.
Some clichés have a hard life: no, sebum is not our enemy. On the contrary, its secretion is a natural phenomenon and allows a good maintenance of the skin’s hydration. “Sebum is made by the sebaceous gland located in the middle part of the skin. In all, two million sebaceous glands produce the sebum, which then spills onto the skin, helping to protect it from the environment,” explains Nadine Pomarède. But, as everything is a question of balance, there is not too much need for it.
THE SEBUM EXCESS, WHAT is IT?
As production increases, hyperseborrhea is more commonly thought to be excess sebum. In practical terms, this gives a skin that tends to shine (especially after lunch), an irregular skin grain and apparent pores. Sebum, produced in abundance, has difficulty evacuating and creates blackheads or microykycysts.
THE CAUSES OF THE SEBUM EXCESS
This phenomenon is mainly due to an increase in secretion, under the influence of hormones. Therefore, it increases especially during adolescence. The main areas affected are the scalp, the T-zone, the torso and the upper back. “There are 400 to 900 sebaceous glands on the forehead, nose and chin on their foreheads and chins,” says the dermatologist. Fortunately, it is possible to rebalance the skin.
OUR ATTACK PLAN FOR LUTTER AGAINST THE SEBUM EXCESS
1. I change my routine care
To have beautiful skin, the step of make-up removal is essential. In the morning and evening, you can think about cleaning your skin, no matter what, by choosing non-aggressive products. A scrub is also used once a week.
In the morning, we apply a mattifying cream with sebo-regulatory ingredients if the shine bothers us. In the evening, we prefer a cream with AHA (fruit acids) that will make a peel on the surface and eliminate blackheads – not recommended for sensitive skin.
If excess sebum affects the scalp, a seboregulatory or frequently used shampoo is used, which does not damage the hair.
2. I pay attention to what’s on my plate
We concoct a plate rich in zinc against acne and especially against excess sebum. The best foods: oysters but also veal liver and steak…
3. I consult a dermatologist
If you have questions or notice a change in your skin, it is always wise to go to a dermatologist. The specialist will then prescribe an appropriate prescription. Also, it is possible to make a superficial peel combining AHA and BHA (betahydroxyacids) or a peel with high aHA concentrations.
“At least 4 to 5 sessions are needed, spaced at least 15 days apart, without healing, to achieve lasting results.”
There are also microdermabrasion sessions, reserved for non-reactive oily skin.
Finally, flash lamps, which act at the dermis, can improve the skin texture. “It takes at least 3 sessions spaced 1 month apart to get a good result. There is no healing after the session, just a transient redness quite make-up,” explains the dermatologist.