You thought you were done with this teenage skin problem or escaped, and now there are pimples popping up on your face. Prof. Jean-Paul Elisabeth explains to us what factors influence this late acne and the best care to remedy it.
Is the skin of an adult different from that of a teenager?
Not really. Its structure is similar. Epidermis, dermis, hypodermics and subcutaneous fat, these layers that make the skin from the surface to the depth, are a constant in both the woman and the teenage girl. Attached to the hairs, the sebaceous glands, which are at the heart of the “acne crisis”, also remain the same.
However, over the years and exhibitions (particularly in the sun), the skin is refined, it becomes sensitive and reactive. The complexion is duller, less uniform.
Juvenile and late, are acne the same?
Not quite. In both cases, an excess of sebum promotes the multiplication of bacteria naturally present on the skin (Propionibacterium acne), which release inflammatory molecules. Consequence? The sebaceous gland gets clogged, the pores of the skin clog, causing white and/or black pimples.
The triggers are different, however, and the buttons do not manifest in the same way.
Thus, at puberty, it is the hormonal “flood” that is involved. Adolescent acne is by definition “Juvenile and polymorphic”: lesions are diverse and multiple (black and white dots, nodules and pustules).
In adulthood, the sebaceous gland is still under hormonal influence, but its functioning is modulated by environmental factors such as stress, sun, tobacco. “Late” female acne is inflammatory, on a skin that is not necessarily oily. Most often, it is composed of a few scattered elements, which appear cyclically, as a prelude to the rules. The buttons are located more on the chin (sometimes in the form of an inflammatory cupboard), cheeks or the turn of the mouth. Women support them less well, mistreat them, which accentuates inflammation… And the risk of scarring or even hyper-pigmentation.
is female acne common in adulthood?
Yes! Almost half of women aged 20 to 40 years report at least some skin blemishes, some acne pustules, occasionally or permanently, that ruin their lives. Especially since the problem does not go out in two to three years as for juvenile acne. Moreover, one third of the “late acne” did not suffer in adolescence.
What factors promote late acne?
-Tobacco, which prevents sebum from flowing freely.
-A change of contraception for a more progestin form, pill, implant or IUD.
-A diet without antioxidants and interesting nutrients (of course found in fruits and vegetables, fish rich in omega 3, etc.)
-The application of “high-tech” cosmetics that play on the Shine maintains, in the long term, inflammation, especially if one does not remove makeup every day or wrong (more than one woman on two!).
Does the sun have a beneficial effect?
No, in spite of appearances! While heating the skin, it dries the pimples and sterilizes the bacteria. Moreover, sunburn and tan camouflage the irregularities of the skin. But the rebound effect: the skin thickened by UV brakes the flow of sebum and the follicles ignite. A high-protection solar fluid is highly recommended, even a wide-brimmed hat.
Do we need to do additional exams?
In general no, because it is extremely rare that late acne is accompanied by hormonal imbalances.
What skin care should be preferred?
- Start by cleaning (not stripping!) your skin, morning and evening, with the help of a cotton or the pulp of the fingers (without the help of the nails!).
- Use a foaming gel or anti-blemish cleaning water that limits bacterial development, stimulates the natural antibacterial self-defense system and regulates sebum secretion. An alternative exists if you prefer all-in-one, both cleansing and cleansing, purifying and matifying, thanks to an exclusive active séborégulator, bactericidal and keratolytic.
- On this purified skin, apply a matifying, anti-gloss and Sebo-regulating day cream or a progressive straightening treatment based on AHA and salicylic acid that refines the grain of the skin and prevents wrinkles.
How to react in the event of a crisis?
To calm the game (especially on the chin) of Propionibacterium acnes, causing inflammatory plaques and displaying, opt for an anti-imperfection treatment, especially when approaching the rules where these “pressure cooker” buttons are expressed more Gladly. To be applied in the evening as a night cream.
When should I take acne medications?
If the pimples are numerous and persist despite appropriate hygiene care, your dermatologist may prescribe a treatment: retinoid cream or lotion or oral medications (antibiotics, zinc derivatives or pills).
Is late acne for the rest of your life?
The problem usually goes out between 40 and 45 years. The care must be adapted as and when the imperfections are measured.